Wednesday, April 29, 2009

And now the much-anticipated travel update!

     Spring Break just ended, and needless to say I took full advantage of two weeks in Europe with no classes. I did and saw lots, and would’ve liked to have updated along the way, but unfortunately had to travel light and so did not have much access to a computer.  Thus I give you my fortnight of travels in four handy segments:

CHARTRES

     I started my vacation with a mini-trip to Chartres, which is a small town that is an hour northwest of Paris by train.  Two friends and I decided to spend half a day here on

the recommendation of several people we knew who had visited and enjoyed it.  Chartres is most famous for its enormous cathedral with beautiful stained glass, elaborate gardens, and labyrinth.  The shade of blue in the windows is very famous – no one has ever been able to precisely replicate it!

     We also took time to walk around the village, which was very cute and French.  We enjoyed the cottage-lined Eure River, an old church-turned-modern-art-exhibition, and the local specialty, Mentchikoffs (white chocolate-covered mini-meringues!).

LONDON

     After a two-hour train ride (including twenty minutes underneath the English Channel!) I arrived in London.  I spent two-and-a-half 

days there, staying with my friend Jill who is studying in London for the year.  I was thankful to have a ready-made tour guide to show me around Wesminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, and the Tate Museum.  Though I did experience the traditional English rain the entire time I was there, I still really enjoyed being in London and seeing so many famous landmarks, such as the Rosetta Stone at the British Museum, the Globe Theatre which is a replica of where Shakespeare’s plays were debuted, and Princess Diana’s wedding ring at Harrod’s.

     Jill also did a good job fulfilling my American food cravings: we ate pizza, bagels, pretzels, sushi, muffins, and the requisite pub grub of course (fish and chips).  It was nice to have so much of the food  that I had been missing– though it’s probably for the best that I am back to my regime of (healthier) French food…

SWEDEN

    Jill and I then flew to Gothenburg, Sweden to spend a few days with her family friends, Curt and Marianne.  They were very kind in sharing their Swedish home, food, and culture with us.  We ate lots of traditional Swedish food (the well-known Swedish breakfast and an anchovy-potato pie), which was all particularly delicious

 because Marianne is a chef at a restaurant in Goth-enburg!  We also had many polit-ical dis-cussions and learned much about the political and social system in Sweden, as Curt is an independent journalist.

     We explored a lot of Gothenburg itself; although it’s the second-largest city in Sweden after Stockholm, it still only has 500,000 inhabitants.  Despite this relatively small size, Gothenburg has an extremely well-developed tram system that was only a few meters from Curt and Marianne’s doorstep!  Thus we were free to travel into the city center whenever we wanted.  There we found art museums, shopping, and lots of warm and colorful botanical gardens and greenhouses.  We also checked out Gothenburg’s harbor by biking along the river and through the city’s many parks.

     One of the high-lights of Sweden was the day trip we took by ferry with Curt and Mari-anne to the southern archipelago, which is a string of islands off Sweden’s coast that is very rugged and populated by small fishing towns.  These were rustic and breathtakingly beautiful – a pure nature that you don’t get to experience in London or Paris!

IRELAND

     After saying goodbye to Sweden and Jill, I met up with another friend, Kate, who is studying in London as well.  She and I hopped on a plane to spend a few days in Cork, Ireland.  We stayed at a

very nice youth hostel in central Cork, and were delighted to find out that planning our trip wasn’t necessary… there were plenty of outgoing, friendly, Irish people at every turn to tell us what we had to see and do in Cork!

     It turns out that we had made a very good choice in going to Cork because the seaside and the historic countryside are both easily accessible, in addition to the city itself.  Thus, on the recommendation of a few gregarious strangers, Kate and I decided to take a short trainride to Cobh (pronounced Cove).  Cobh is famous for three reasons : it was the port of exit for many of the immigrants who left Ireland in the 19th and 20th centuries.  This was particularly fascinating for me, as I have visited the Ellis Island processing center in New York, where many of the Irish immigrants entered the United States.  Cobh was also the last place of embarkment for the Titanic, as well as the Lusitania, which sunk not far off the shore there.  So we found a really informative museum in Cobh giving

 us information about all of these events.

     Back in Cork, Kate and I decided to visit the Butter Museum on a whim.  We didn’t realize that butter has been an important staple in Ireland for thousands of years – in fact, the ancient Celtic people used to bury their butter in peat bogs to refrigerate it, and so one of these  thousand-year-old barrels of butter has been fossilized and is on display in the museum!  Pretty neat.  The kind man working at the museum insisted that we go next door and visit the Bells of Shandon… so of course we did.  These turn out to be church bells housed in a tower where you can go and ring the bells yourself !  This was a pretty unforgettable experience as well.

     Finally, Cork is only a twenty-minute busride from Blarney.  I expected Blarney to be an overpriced, touristy pile of rocks, but it turned out to be beautiful!  It is a thousand-year-old castle 

surrounded by flowery gardens and rolling, emerald hills.  Once at the top of the castle, you not only get a breathtaking view, but also to kiss the Blarney Stone!  The Stone apparently gives all those who kiss it the ‘Gift of the Gab,’ or the highly sought-after power of eloquence and flattery.

    So after these wonderful travels, I am now back in Paris with only three weeks left (eek!).  I have two weeks of class and one week to pack and write and hand in final papers.  I’m trying to enjoy springtime in Paris and make the most of the time I have left here!

Friday, April 10, 2009

La Belle Belgique


    So last weekend was excursion #2 with the International Parisian Youth Club.  First we visited Bruge, a small canal town near the Atlantic coast that is known as the 'Venice of the north.'  I was surprised that hardly anyone seemed to speak French; it was either Dutch or English.  Belgium is officially a bilingual country, but in Bruge all of the signs are in Dutch and I heard a lot of people speaking this odd language.  I must admit I find French much more beautiful!
    Bruge is not only home to a bunch of canals, but also a béguinage (a community of women whose husbands went off to war and who didn't want to renounce their marriage by becoming nuns) which had a beautiful garden of daffodils in full bloom, the Church of Our Lady (home to one of the few Michelangelo sculptures that is located outside of Italy), a very beautiful Hotel de Ville (town hall) - not to mention a lot of delicious chocolate shops.
    After a few hours in Bruge, we headed over to Brussels.  For dinner, I went to a restaurant recommended by one of my French professors back at Wesleyan who is from Belgium.  I got croquettes aux crevettes (fried rolls containing shrimp in a creamy, cheesy sauce), and frites (fries), both specialties that originally come from Belgium!  I also had one of those well-known Belgian waffles, which are definitely better in Belgium than the kind they serve us at the dining hall at school.  And of course, I made sure to stop by the chocolaterie that my professor recommended.  I got a few chocolates to bring back for Thérèse-Marie (and a couple for myself too!).
    The next day, we explored the Grand Place, which is the
 beautiful square located in the middle of Brussels.  We then went to check out the Belgian Center for the Comic Strip.  Comic strips are considered a real art both in Belgium and in Europe, and so we found a lot of familiar favorites - most notably, smurfs! (which are hilariously called schtroumpfs in Dutch).  After the museum, we grabbed some sandwiches and went to picnic in the adorable, duckling-filled Leopold Park, which is located in the part of town where the European Union buildings are found.  Many of the EU's institutions meet in Brussels, and since I'm taking a class all about the EU, I had to hunt down as many of the buildings as I could.
  Before piling back on the bus, we found a great view of Brussels at the top of a parking garage (!), and I snapped as many photos as I could from there.
     I have to say that I was really impressed with Brussels.  There is a real mix of architecture that Paris is often lacking... you find art nouveau buildings and sculptures next to ultramodern glass-and-steel skyscrapers next to classically beautiful gothic cathedrals.  The people and food of Brussels also reflect this eclecticness - I've never seen so many ethnicities and heard so many languages spoken in one place!  Belgians are also self-proportedly aisé, which means 'laid-back' in a way that hints that people of other cities are NOT laid-back (hmm Paris, maybe?).  Basically Brussels was a breath of wacky, diverse, Wesleyan-ish fresh air!

Friday, April 3, 2009

An Excursion to Mont Saint Michel and Saint Malo

     Last weekend I had my first out-of-Paris experience since my arrival in January.  I'm glad I waited a while before leaving - I was ready to leave Paris and explore a bit, but I was also glad to come 'home' to Paris at the end of the trip!
     The excursion was through the International Parisian Youth Club, which the program recommended us to.  Five people from the program (including myself) signed up for the trip and we were joined by about 30 other young people from all across the world who are also studying and living in Paris.  We left Paris at an ungodly 6 am Saturday morning in a coach bus, arriving at Mont Saint Michel late morning.
    Mont Saint Michel is a small rocky island in the Normandy region (northwest France) that becomes completely surrounded by the ocean during high tide and can be reached by car during low tide.  I actually had a poster of Mont Saint Michel in my dorm room, so seeing the real thing in person was pretty wild.  At the top of Mont Saint Michel is a centuries-old abbey that is very beautiful.  We had 
amazing weather - a rarity in Nor-mandy, evidently - so we were very lucky!
      Of course, we couldn't resist taste-tasting all the local specialties: galettes de blé noir (buckwheat crêpe-ish pancakes with fillings like cheese and tomatoes or ham and egg), cidre (alcoholic cider), moules frites (fried mussels), galettes bretonnes (extremely addictive buttery cookies), and last but of course not least, caramel salé (salted caramel).  I think one of the best things about France is that it is such a rich and diverse country agriculturally that each region has very different and delicious specialties.
     After a day at Mont Saint Michel, we headed back to the bus for a quick ride over to Saint Malo, located in Bretagne (the Brittany region).  We spent the night at a nice youth hostel there and woke up the next morning to explore.  Saint Malo is an ancient, walled city with very pretty sandy beaches and island forts.  It is also the home to corsiers, which were basically legal pirates back in the days of kings and empires.  Chateaubriand, a famous French author, was born and buried at Saint Malo, hence the multitude
 of avenues, roads, alleys, and buildings named "Chateau-briand".
    It was a very enjoyable trip - this weekend I am off on a similar excursion to Belgium with the same group, so I will write about that next!